Fresh Bamboo Shoots
Every March, the Setouchi region begins a springtime love affair with fresh edible bamboo shoots (takenoko/筍 or 竹の子), the succulent cones, covered by papery layers of skin, that emerge from the underground rhizomes of bamboo. Nearly 60% of Japan's cultivated bamboo shoots are harvested in the Setouchi, while wild growth can be found in abundance across the region’s meadows, forests and myriad islands. Over the next several months, locals become foragers, eagerly seeking out the perfect sprouts in the early morning hours before the sun sparks their fast growth, which can be as much as 3 feet (1 meter) a day, making them inedible. Farmers' markets become bustling hubs of activity, with people arriving early to secure the prized delicacies before they sell out. Once obtained, there is a rush to return home and prepare the bamboo shoots quickly, by boiling them, to preserve their subtly sweet, grassy aroma and taste and tenderize their crunch.
The joy of eating bamboo shoots begins with simple pleasures: the boiled shoots are grilled to charred perfection and served with a delicate dipping sauce and a touch of hot karashi mustard. Or perhaps they are fried in a light tempura batter, complimented by a sprinkling of sea salt. For a more luxurious treat, the boiled shoots are chilled and dressed in white miso paste infused with the enchanting flavor of sansho leaves, creating the iconic spring dish known as Takenoko no Kinome-Ae, reminiscent of white asparagus served with hollandaise sauce in some European countries during the same time of year.
As the season progresses, freshly boiled bamboo shoots become a versatile ingredient that adds texture and flavor to a variety of dishes. They are sliced and diced and tossed into soups, salads, stir-fries, braises, and rice and noodle dishes, providing a unique, subtle sweetness and satisfying crunch. Pickled bamboo shoots are also a popular option, adding a dense, crispy garnish to any dish. In all their forms, fresh bamboo shoots are a hallmark of springtime cuisine, and the people of the Setouchi share their love for them by gifting them to family, friends, and neighbors, making the affair a communal celebration of the season.
The Setouchi region boasts a variety of edible bamboo shoots, each offering its own distinct seasonality, flavor profiles, and culinary applications. The most well-known and commonly consumed types are:
Mosochiku (孟宗竹): In season from March to May, mosochiku is the most common variety of bamboo shoot and also the most popular. It was introduced from China about 500 years ago and first grown in Japan on Kyushu Island. Harvested when the shoot has a diameter of up to 4-6 inches (10-15 cm), mosochiku is the largest and thickest variety of bamboo shoot and is easily recognized by its unique tip that hangs down. Its shiny purplish-brown skin, covered with fine hairs and black patches, conceals flesh that is not only fragrant but also sweet and flavorful, with a pleasingly tender crunch.
Mosochiku’s size makes it versatile, easily cut into various shapes, and its exceptional taste makes it a favorite for all kinds of preparations, including grilling, tempura, soups, salads, stir-fries, braises, and rice and noodle dishes.
Hachiku (淡竹): May is the season of hachiku, a variety of bamboo shoot that is believed to be native to Japan since pre-historic times. Unlike the robust moschiku, hachiku showcases a slender and elongated shape with a sharp, straight tip, while its skin exhibits an even pale reddish-purple hue, adorned with sparser hairs. Compared to mosochiku, hachiku shoots offer a lighter flavor and a softer, delicately crisp texture (the name hachiku means “light” bamboo.)
Notably sweeter than mosochiku, hachiku shoots lend themselves beautifully to grilling or frying as tempura. Its milder taste makes it a perfect complement to the light and quick cooking styles prevalent in the Setouchi region, where it harmonizes splendidly with the delicate flavors of local seafood and seasonal vegetables.
Madake (真竹): From May to June, the equally ancient variety of bamboo shoot known as madake, meaning "True Bamboo," is in season. Its straight, hairless body, adorned with large black patches, features a distinctively pointed tip. As might be expected from such an ancient type of plant, it offers less edible flesh compared to other varieties of bamboo shoot. It also possesses a stronger taste and a firmer texture compared to mosochiku and hachiku, exhibiting a greater hint of bitterness.
Madake’s flavor characteristics can be mitigated by extended cooking, which brings out its underlying sweetness and softens its texture. Its robust flavor and firm texture shine best in dishes such as soups, stews, stir-fries, braises, and strongly-seasoned preparations.
Bamboo, a type of grass, thrives in the Setouchi region thanks to its temperate climate of hot, humid summers and mild winters.
In addition to the traditional, well-known spring varieties of bamboo shoot, the Setouchi region is home to several types that are harvested later in the year:
Nemagaridake(根曲がり竹): During June, cold-hardy nemagaridake bamboo shoots emerge across Japan’s northern regions, and can also be found in the mountain highlands of the Setouchi region. With a name that derives from the slight curve at its base, this slender, relatively short bamboo shoot ranging in height from 6-8 inches (15 to 20 cm) has a fine pointed tip and vibrant green color when shucked, giving it a striking resemblance to asparagus. Nemagaridake has an elegant sweetness, gentle flavor, and less bitterness compared to most bamboo shoots. Their tips are soft, while the base has a pleasant crispness. Depending on the region, nemagaridake is known by various other names, including chishima-zasa, gassan-takenoko, himetake, and sasa-takenoko.
Nemagaridake are known for their ease and quick preparation, requiring less time compared to other bamboo shoots. Due to their gentle taste and texture, they shine as stand-alone dishes: roasted, baked in foil, and enjoyed as tempura, or deep-fried. However, they also lend themselves nicely to salads and light-tasting stir-fries.
Kanzanchiku (寒山竹): During the months of July and August, the highly regarded kanzanchiku variety takes its place as a sought-after delicacy among those fortunate enough to taste it. Primarily cultivated in Kagoshima prefecture, as well as other regions of Kyushu Island and Shikoku Island, this bamboo shoot is known by its moniker "Daimyo Bamboo Shoot," reflecting its status as a favorite of feudal daimyo lords in bygone eras. Kanzanchiku is often considered the pinnacle of flavor among the numerous bamboo shoot varieties. Its flesh boasts a delightful sweetness and tenderness, with minimal bitterness.
Remarkably easy to prepare, kanzanchiku is best enjoyed on its own or accompanied by other delicately foods like sashimi or steamed foods. To truly appreciate its essence, simple seasonings such as sea salt or usukuchi soy sauce can be used sparingly to enhance its natural taste.
Shihochiku: (四方竹: Emerging late in the year on Shikoku and Kyushu islands, shihochiku is a unique bamboo shoot exclusive to the Setouchi region that makes its appearance in October and November. This small and slender bamboo shoot stands out for its remarkably crunchy texture and distinctive hollow center.
Because of its firm texture, the most common preparations involve boiling it for use in salad, as an ingredient in soups, stews, and braises, or frying it as tempura or deep-fried. Additionally, shihochiku takes center stage in two regional specialties. The first is "Ponkiri-Ni" (Ponkiri Stew), where the shoot is sliced into round pieces and simmered with pieces of bonito or chicken in a seasoned dashi broth. The second delicacy, known as "Inaka-Zushi," involves stuffing the hollow center of the boiled bamboo shoot with sushi rice.
Farmers' market bins brimming with fresh mosochiku bamboo shoots sell out rapidly in the morning, testament to their popularity among eager cooks who seek to bring them home and prepare them promptly to capture their utmost freshness. The shoots are often accompanied by small bags of nuka rice bran, a key ingredient used during the initial boiling process to enhance their flavor and texture.
How to Use
Before using fresh bamboo shoots in cooking, they need to be properly prepped. The standard method involves boiling the whole shoots for a duration of 30 minutes to an hour, depending on their size and variety. This boiling process serves multiple purposes. Firstly, it helps remove a natural toxin, found in a variety of vegetables and fruits, called cyanogenic glycosides, which can produce hydrogen cyanide when ingested. The levels of this toxin can vary among different bamboo species. The boiling step can also be viewed as a long blanching process, which preserves the subtle aroma and taste of the fresh bamboo shoots while softening their texture. Most cooks prefer to boil the shoots as soon as possible after bringing them home, as their flavor tends to deteriorate over time, becoming harsher and more bitter.
Once boiled, the shoots can be stored in cold water in the refrigerator for up to 5 days, providing a readily available source of springtime deliciousness for a wide range of dishes. Fresh bamboo shoots can be used in various culinary applications, including grilling, roasting, pan-frying, tempura frying, deep-frying, salads, soups, stews, braises, and rice and noodle dishes. While they’re beloved in classic Japanese cuisine, they can also be incorporated into dishes from around the world. For instance, try adding julienned, thinly sliced, or diced bamboo shoots to salads, vegetable or cream soups, a pasta Primavera or Paella, or even use as a topping for pizza. They are also a staple in Chinese and other Asian cuisines, enhancing the flavors of soups, stir-fries, curries, and noodle dishes. Using fresh bamboo shoots will result in far superior taste compared to canned versions.
Bamboo shoots vary in hardness depending on the part. The stem offers the most crunchiness, while the tips are the softest. Use the tender tips for delicate preparations like salads and lightly-cooked dishes, and reserve the stems for dishes where a crunchier texture is desired or for longer cooking times. Cut the stems in various ways, such as thin or thick boards or half-moon slices, large or small cubes, or even wedges. Similarly, prepare the tips in a similar manner, often by slicing them down their length to showcase a bit of the interior lattice on each wedge.
Where to Buy
Fresh bamboo shoots can be readily found at farmers' markets, supermarkets, and various shops in the Setouchi region, as well as in the food halls of department stores throughout Japan during their season. They are also available at specialty food stores and can be purchased online from global retailers.
If not specifically labeled, they’re likely to be mosochiku bamboo shoots. When purchasing fresh bamboo shoots, they’re often sold together with a small bag of nuka rice bran, which is used during the boiling process. Or the rice bran may be sold separately at a cost of around ¥10 per bag.
To judge the freshness of bamboo shoots, there are three key indicators to consider—the tips, skin, and weight:
Tips: Look for bamboo shoots with yellow to light yellowish green tips. Dark green tips indicate that the shoot emerged too far from the soil before being harvested and was exposed too long to the sun, resulting in reduced flavor and increased bitterness.
Skin: The freshest shoots will have shiny, lighter-colored skin that varies depending on the variety. Dark brown or very black skin suggests that the shoots were exposed to sunlight for an extended period. Additionally, check the cut end of the stem, which should be white. Browning indicates that the shoot has been stored for too long after harvesting and has lost moisture.
Weight: When holding bamboo shoots in your hands, the heavier ones generally contain more water and are fresher.
Typically, bamboo shoots are sold in plastic bags with damp paper wrapped around the stem to maintain freshness. If not, you can wrap them in damp newspaper and place them in a plastic bag. Store them in the refrigerator as soon as you arrive home and remember to cook the shoots as soon as possible to enjoy their freshest flavor and texture.
Alternatively, you may come across freshly boiled bamboo shoots at local markets, prepared by foragers and sold in bags filled with water. While convenient and delicious, boiling the shoots yourself from scratch is the best way to fully experience their authentic flavor and texture.