The Tobishima Kaido Islands : Places to Eat & Stay
The Tobishima Kaido, a graceful 46km stretch of bridges and roads, interlinks seven picturesque islands of the Geiyo Archipelago in the heart of the Seto Inland Sea, situated just west of the renowned Shimanami Kaido. Translating to the "Island-Hopping Sea Road," the Tobishima Kaido, completed in 2008, was envisioned to integrate the quaint farming and fishing communities on these islands with the bustling worlds of Kure and Hiroshima cities on mainland Honshu Island. Yet, even with modern connectivity, the islands remain sanctuaries of timeless allure, in part because the Tobishima Kaido culminates in a cul-de-sac on the final island, Okamurajima, instead of being a thruway between mainland Honshu and Shikoku Islands like its Shimanami Kaido counterpart.
Elegantly depicted as a passage to nostalgia and evocative memories in the Oscar-winning film “Drive My Car,” the Tobishima Kaido encapsulates an area rich in history, natural beauty, and the unhurried way of life of the Setouchi’s “amabito,” or “sea people.” This uniquely authentic and unspoiled sector within the Setouchi region has lately attracted new residents and travelers, sparking a renaissance in local hospitality, represented by an increasing variety of eateries celebrating regional foods and dishes and array of accommodations ranging from the traditional to the modern.
Although the road concludes at Okamurajima, ferries from there seamlessly bridge the gap to the Shimanami Kaido or Imabari City on Shikoku Island. Alternatively, from Osaka Shimojima Island, ferries lead to Osaki Kamijima Island, a worthy destination on its own or a gateway to the historic town of Takehara back on the Honshu mainland. Thus, the Tobishima Kaido can serve as a standalone retreat or as an enchanting segment of a broader journey through the Seto Inland Sea's island tapestry.
Cafe Nanakuni (Cafe ななくに)
671-1 Kamagaricho Oura, Kami Kamagari Island, Hiroshima Prefecture 737-0402
Hours: 10:00-16:00; closed Tuesdays & Wednesdays
Tel: +81 (090) 8719 3003
Situated on a hillside within the sleepy village of Oura on Kami Kamagari Island, this quaint cafe provides wholesome meals accompanied by picturesque views of the Seto Inland Sea. The proprietor, a returnee from Hiroshima City, artfully transformed her family home into a cozy haven, where you can savor a moment of calm or engage in a heartening chat with the welcoming owner.
The Okamura Ohashi bridge connects tiny Nakanojima Island to Okamurajima, the last island in the Tobishima Kaido chain.
Camp & Cottage Kajigahama
839-16 Shimojima, Shimo Kamagari Island, Hiroshima Prefecture 737-0303
Tel: +81 (0823) 70 8151
Web: https://kajigahama.jp/
Nestled alongside the popular Kajigahama Beach on Shimo Kamagari Island, Camp & Cottage Kajigahama offers an array of accommodation choices. This includes Japanese-style cottages, complete with an irori (traditional hearth) centerpiece. For a unique dining experience choose the catering option, and Chef Shino, one of the most foremost chefs on the islands, will come to your cottage and craft a traditional Japanese meal for you right on the hearth, featuring delicacies like hearth-baked fish on bamboo skewers and the regional speciality Tai Meishi (Sea Bream Rice). Additional amenities at this facility include camping areas, bike rentals, and a coworking space.
Hatagoya Kusushi Guesthouse (GUESTHOUSE醫)
255-2 Yutakamachimitarai, Osaki Shimojima Island, Hiroshima Prefecture 734-0302
Tel: +81 (070) 2365 0924
Web: https://hatagoya-kusushi.com
Housed in a brightly-painted Western-style clapboard building that once served as the medical clinic of the historic trading port of Mitarai on Osaki Shimojima Island during the Taisho era (1912-1926), Hatagoya Kusushi Guesthouse is a charming option for budget-conscious travelers. It offers shared and private rooms and a shared kitchen for cyclists and other visitors.
Katsura Tei Kamagari Honten (かつら亭 蒲刈本店)
2032-1 Kamagaricho Miyazakari, Kami Kamagari Island, Hiroshima Prefecture 737-0401
Hours: 11 :00-14:00 & 17:00-20:30; closed Tuesdays
Tel: +81 (0823) 66 0114
Web: https://www.katuratei.com
Located on Kami Kamagari Island, Katsura Tei stands as one of the region's most renowned seafood restaurants. Much of the fish served is caught by the owners themselves and can be seen swimming in expansive pools within the restaurant's premises. For those seeking the freshest catch on the Tobishima Kaido, Katsura Tei is the destination.
Sunset near Katsura Tei on Kami Kamagari Island.
Kangetsu-an Shintoyo (閑月庵新豊）
313 Yutakamachimitarai, Osaki Shimojima Island, Hiroshima Prefecture 734-0302
Tel: +81 (050) 7128 3003
Web: https://mitarai-shintoyo.com
This exquisitely refurbished establishment in the historic trading port of Mitarai on Osaki Shimojima Island was originally a sailor's inn. Today, it houses a restaurant called "Sea Front Dining" on its ground floor which offers an array of delectable seafood dishes under the helm of Chef Shino, one of the foremost chefs on the Tobishima Kaido islands. Upstairs is an exclusive guest suite, famously used by the lead character in the Oscar-winning film "Drive My Car."
Kenmin no Hama Beach Resort (県民の浜)
7605 Kamagaricho, Oura, Kami Kamagari Island, Hiroshima Prefecture 737-0402 7605
Restaurant Hours: 11:00-14:30, closed Tuesdays
Tel: +81 (0823) 66 1177
Web: https://kenmin-no-hama.jp
As the premier resort on the Tobishima Kaido, Kenmin no Hama Beach Resort offers the most extensive range of accommodations. Guests can choose from traditional Japanese-style hotel rooms, rental cabins, or uniquely shaped, igloo-like dome cottages. Beyond lodging, the resort offers a spa, as well as kayak and bicycle rentals for the adventurous. The on-site "Abi" restaurant welcomes the public for lunch, delighting patrons with fresh seafood teishoku lunch sets. The resort boasts easy access to stunning Kenmin no Hama Beach, recognized as one of Japan's top 100 beaches.
Kishina (きしな)
1651-13 Shimokamagaricho Shimo Kamagari Island, Hiroshima Prefecture 737-0303
Hours: 11:00-14:00, closed Thursdays
Tel: +81 (0823) 65 2848
Located on Shimo Kamagari Island near the base of the Akinada Ohashi Bridge, which connects the Tobishima Kaido islands to the Honshu mainland, sits Kishina, a restaurant specializing in Hiroshima's signature dish, okonomiyaki. This delectable savory pancake, is traditionally layered with fried noodles, cabbage, egg, and various other ingredients. Kishina, however, serves a unique local variant known as"Kure-yaki". Originally born in the bustling nearby port city of Kure, this variant catered to the brief lunch hours of naval personnel and shipbuilders, presenting a quicker alternative to the conventional layered okonomiyaki. Resembling a yaki-soba noodle-filled omelette, Kure-yaki was once mainly associated with its rapid preparation, sometimes at the expense of flavor. Today, Kishina, transcending past limitations, has refined Kure-yaki. Their contemporary version is famed for its signature slender noodles and a distinctive sauce, all meticulously crafted on an extra large hot plate, right before the eyes of its patrons, with the consensus being that Kure-yaki has never been as tasty.
The Akinada Ohashi Bridge links the Honshu mainland and Shimo Kamagari Island, the first island in the Tobishima Kaido chain.
Mamena Shokudo (まめな食堂)
2312 Yutakamachikubi, Osaki Shimojima Island, Hiroshima Prefecture 734-0304
Hours: 11:30-13:30 Mondays, Tuesdays & Sundays
Tel: +81 (0823) 66 2939
Web: https://www.facebook.com/MamenaSyokudo/
Located in the tranquil citrus farming village of Kubi on the north side of Osaki Shimojima Island, Mamema Shokudo is a pioneering initiative by the Mamena Project. This dynamic group of young entrepreneurs and professionals is dedicated to rejuvenating the village through innovative, community-centric endeavors. Their inaugural project, the establishment of a diner or 'shokudo', provides a space where locals and tourists alike can enjoy scrumptious meals at affordable prices.
Maruya Cafe (まるやカフェ)
2229-9 Sannose, Shimo Kamagari Island, Hiroshima Prefecture 737-0301
Hours: 11:00–14:30 Saturdays & Sundays
Tel: +81 (070) 4175 6427
Web: www.facebook.com/maruyacafe20160330
Situated on Shimo Kamagari Island with views of a charming fishing harbor and the historic 16th-century Maruya Castle, which once guarded the waters now connected by the Akinada Ohashi Bridge, is Maruya Cafe. This delightful eatery is helmed by the dynamic duo, Anna Hamashita and her chef husband. Anna, a native of the island, returned with her husband several years ago to breathe new life into her grandmother’s former home, transforming it into this cafe. Both locals and tourists cherish this spot, with a notable influx during the green lemon harvesting season from November to May. During this period, their signature "Shima Soba" noodles are a must-try: a rich chicken broth ramen adorned with slender noodles, juicy chicken morsels, and slices of subtly sweet Japanese naga-negi leeks. Diners are encouraged to enhance their ramen with green lemons, using the provided juicer and grater to add juice to brighten the broth’s flavor and zest to add a fragrant aroma and spicy kick. Catering to both dine-in and take-out customers, Maruya Cafe is a prime lunch destination, especially for those touring the nearby Shoto-en museum and garden complex or are in need of some delicious snacks for later in the day while journeying across the islands.
Beyond the cafe, Anna and her husband have ventured further, opening an exclusive Japanese restaurant upstairs, available only by reservation. Throughout the week, they also produce a collection of popular salad dressings and ponzu sauces from the cafe’s kitchen. These products, including the nutrient-rich "Hijiki Seaweed Dressing" made from the local sea vegetable hijiki and olive oil sourced from Anna's uncle's grove, are sold at the cafe and have also found their way to stores throughout Hiroshima prefecture. Other offerings include "Kara-Age ni Kakeru Tare", a zesty lemon sauce perfect for fried foods, and distinct ponzu sauces crafted from island-grown sudachi and daidai citrus. Anna's culinary range also extends to a mikan orange dressing and a lemon sushi-zu for making sushi rice.
Megumi no Oka Restaurant (恵みの丘レストラン)
Kamagaricho Oura, Kami Kamagari Island, Hiroshima Prefecture 737-0402
Hours: 11:00-14:00 (14:30pm on weekends), closed Mondays & Tuesdays
Tel: +81 (0823) 70 7010
Just up the road from the Amabito no Moshio seaweed salt workshop, atop a hill with sweeping views of the Seto Inland Sea, stands Megumi no Oka restaurant. Situated in a contemporary building, this farmhouse-inspired eatery takes pride in serving home-cooked meals crafted by local residents, blending freshly-caught seafood with produce harvested from the restaurant’s own farm. Their teishoku lunch sets are accompanied by a generous assortment of side dishes, ensuring that no guest leaves Megumi no Oka with an empty stomach.
Miharashi Shokudo & Ryokan (みはらし食堂 & 旅館)
242-3 Yutakamachimitarai, Osaki Shimojima Island, Hiroshima Prefecture 734-0302
Diner Hours: 11:00-14:00 & 17:30-21:00; closed Sundays
Tel: +81 (0823) 66 2056
Situated in the historic trading port of Mitarai on Osaki Shimojima Island, Miharashi Shokudo offers a lively lunch experience, especially when bustling with locals. Open daily except Sundays, it features a straightforward self-serve system where dishes are displayed in a glass cabinet. Guests simply select their preferred plates, which the cook can reheat upon request. Along with daily specials, a menu of deliciously prepared standards is available, including ramen, fried rice, and the local favorite, nabe-yaki udon noodles. Adjacent to the diner is Miharashi Ryokan, a classic Japanese inn that has welcomed guests for generations. This authentic ryokan features tatami mat rooms, futons, and a communal bath. While staying, guests can enjoy their meals at the shokudo, with many praising the appetizing and ample servings at dinner and breakfast.
Minpaku Tomitsune Inn & Cafe (民泊とみつね)
316 Yutakamachimitarai, Osaki Shimojima Island, Hiroshima Prefecture 734-0302
Cafe Hours: 11:00-16:00, closed Thursdays & Fridays
Tel: +81 (090) 4278 0621
Web: https://stayjapan.com/area/hiroshima/kure/pr/13381
Many visitors to the historic port town of Mitarai on Osaki Shimojima Island are pleasantly surprised by the hidden gem, Minpaku Tomitsune. This establishment offers a rental accommodation on the upper floor that boasts unmatched vistas of the bay, with the distant glimmer of Kurushima Kaikyo Ohashi Bridge—the world’s longest suspension bridge structure—adding to the allure. On the ground level is a cozy cafe, where the owner meticulously prepares exquisite siphon drip coffee and fresh juices. She also serves light meals, sourcing many of the fresh ingredients from her picturesque organic farm located adjacent to Mitarai’s revered Tenman Shrine.
Sekizen Shokudo (関前食堂)
852-4 Sekizenokamura, Okamura Island, Ehime Prefecture 794-1101
Hours: 11:30-13:30pm Fridays & 11:00-14:00 Saturdays & Sundays
Tel: +81 (090) 7211 5571
Web: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100063476887718
Facing the quaint harbor of Okamurajima Island, the last island in the Tobishima Kaido chain, this inviting curry restaurant serves as a beacon for food lovers. Managed by a former rural revitalization worker (chiiki-okoshi-kyoryokutai), the eatery has emerged as a popular community gathering spot for locals and tourists alike. Over weekends, it's a common sight to see a lengthy queue of motorcycle and bicycle riders awaiting their turn at a table, before they continue their explorations across the Seto Inland Sea via ferries that leave from the nearby port.
The Tea Cosy
166-7 Yutakamachimitarai, Osaki Shimojima Island, Hiroshima Prefecture 734-0302
Hours: 11:30-16:00 Saturdays & Sundays
Tel: +81 (0823) 67 2015
Web: https://www.facebook.com/teacosyjapan
Mai and Tom Miyagawa Coulton have been ardent advocates for island development since they relocated from Tokyo to Mitarai in 2015. Mai initially worked as a strategist and liaison officer for Osaki Shimojima Island's regional revitalization initiative, while Tom flourishes as a photographer, writer, and filmmaker. In 2019, they established The Tea Cosy within Mitarai's former post office, which also houses Tom's studio. This cozy establishment offers visitors respite from their travels, serving English tea, homemade scones, jam, and cream, along with occasional specialities like lemon drizzle cake. Their delightful scones are a result of a recipe handed down from a family friend in Tom's English hometown, who's hailed as the "Scone Master of Devon" and presides as the main judge at the annual UK Women's Institute-sponsored scone baking competition. Recently, the couple undertook extensive renovations of the building and fashioned a charming herb garden across the street. The shop is set to reopen in November 2023. Tom also contributes to “The Setouchi Cookbook,” a popular food-travel blog that promotes Setouchi's rich food culture globally.
Udon no Hara (うどん の 腹)
3103 Kamagaricho Oura, Kami Kamagari Island, Hiroshima Prefecture 737-0402
Hours: 11:00-15:00; closed Wednesdays, Thursdays & irregular holidays
Tel: +81 (0823) 66 0976
Udon no Hara, a cherished udon food truck, has been a staple of the Tobishima Kaido landscape even before bridges connected the islands. Once stationed at the ferry port linking Kami Kamagari with the rest of the islands, morning ferry passengers would traditionally stop for a bowl of udon before proceeding with their mainland commute for school or work. Nowadays, you can find this beloved food truck perched atop a hill on the main cycling route across the islands. Attracting both locals and tourists, Udon no Hara is known for more than just its delectable udon; the elderly couple who operate it offer a delightful and heartwarming experience, making every visit memorable.