Red Sea Bream : King of Fish
Red Sea Bream, the crown jewel of Setouchi cuisine, is known as Madai (真鯛) or "True Sea Bream." This name distinguishes it from other sea bream varieties (tai / 鯛) found in the Seto Inland Sea. It’s hard to mistake though for any other fish due to its striking red hue, impressive size for a coastal fish, and dignified appearance featuring a noble face and gracefully arched back.
As the apex predator among coastal fish in the Seto Inland Sea, Red Sea Bream is a formidable swimmer. It relies on its strong teeth and jaws to feed on smaller fish, crustaceans, and mollusks, such as shrimp, crab, and clams. This active “lifestyle” and diet contribute to the fish's firm-textured, lean, small-flake white flesh, which boasts a clean, delicately sweet, and minerally flavor with a subtle yet deep umami richness.
In the Setouchi region, Red Sea Bream sets the standard for flavor among seafood. In comparison, other coastal fish like sea bass, rockfish, and flounder are perceived as either soft textured or a bit “smelly” due to their more sedentary swimming habits or bottom-feeding diets which include phytoplankton and seaweeds, in addition to other seafoods. Large, offshore white-flesh ocean fish such as mackerel, yellowtail, and cod that are principally carnivores like Red Sea Bream are considered oily, stronger tasting, and “fishy” flavored.
Red Sea Bream's "meaty" texture, low-calorie content, and nutrient-rich profile—packed with B vitamins, calcium, phosphorus, zinc, and iodine—have made it a staple in the Setouchi diet for thousands of years. Prepared in a variety of ways, Red Sea Bream has played a significant role in shaping Setouchi cuisine, and the region’s style of cooking has evolved in support of its mild, nuanced flavor. This includes the use of lighter dashi stocks and less umami-rich seasonings than elsewhere in Japan, the inclusion of few aromatics and flavorings in a dish, and a minimal use of fats and oils in general.
The satisfying “meaty” texture of Red Sea Bream’s small-flake flesh is suffused with umami that is subtle tasting yet as rich as that of any large offshore ocean fish.
Fondly dubbed "athlete" fish by fishermen, Red Sea Bream thrives in the fast-moving waters of the Seto Inland Sea, where rapid straits and dramatic tidal shifts provide it with the perfect environment. One scuba diver likened a school of swiftly swimming Red Sea Bream to a "ghostly underwater battleship, churning the waters and engulfing all light until it passed."
Prime Red Sea Bream habitats are found in the narrowest parts of the Seto Inland Sea, and where islands are plentiful. These include the Naruto whirlpools (Naruto no Uzushio / 鳴門の渦潮), among the world's fastest, and the Akashi Strait (Akashi Kaikyō / 明石海峡) surrounding Awaji Island at the eastern edge of the Seto Inland Sea, where it connects with the Pacific Ocean. The fish caught here are renowned as “Naruto Sea Bream” and “Akashi Sea Bream.”
Additional prime locations include the waters around the closely grouped islands of the Shimanami Kaido and Tobishima Kaido chains, situated at the sea's narrowest point near the heart of the Setouchi region. As the most treacherous straits in Japan, these waters once fostered the exceptional navigational and angling skills of the Murakami Kaizoku pirates, who ruled the Seto Inland Sea from the 14th to 16th centuries during Japan's medieval period. Today, the region's fishermen and the Red Sea Bream they catch are still regarded by many as the finest in the Setouchi.
Red Sea Bream graces the Setouchi region year-round, offering a delectable taste at any time. However, two seasons stand out for their exceptional flavor. Between October and February, as the Seto Inland Sea's temperature cools, the fish become less active, resulting in sweeter and richer flesh. During March and April, the spawning season yields plumper and fattier specimens. Known as "Cherry Sea Bream" (Sakura-Dai / 桜鯛), this springtime delicacy celebrates the season as females display a vibrant cherry red hue, and males develop light pink spots reminiscent of cherry blossom petals.
Due to its popularity and culinary versatility, Red Sea Bream is also farmed in the Setouchi region. Farming primarily occurs in the expansive outer reaches of the Seto Inland Sea, such as off the western coast of Shikoku Island and along the shores of Wakayama prefecture. While both areas produce delicious farmed fish, the quality of wild-caught Red Sea Bream remains unsurpassed. To identify wild-caught specimens, look for the term "tennen" (天然), which denotes natural, wild-caught fish. Alternatively, examine the fish's abdominal fin and tail—those of wild fish remain intact, while farmed fish often have damaged fins due to the fierce activity of the fish in their confined quarters.
As versatile as it is delicious, Red Sea Bream can be enjoyed head to tail, whole or filleted, served raw or grilled, steamed, poached, simmered in a sauce, pan-fried, deep-fried, and baked. The fish comes in a range of sizes, with the most commonly available being those that weigh around 1-2 lbs. These can be prepared as whole fish or cut up into decent-sized fillets. The fish can be much larger and weigh as much as 10-20 lbs.
As with all of the seafoods of the Setouchi, eating freshly caught Red Sea Bream as sashimi, sushi, or used raw in a dish should be a first consideration. Salt-grilled Red Sea Bream is equally heavenly because it brings out the fish’s sweet aroma as well as its taste. Red Sea Bream’s dense, juicy flesh means that it can stand up to high heat without losing its moisture. Whichever preparation you choose, cook the fish quickly to preserve its delicate flavor. Fillets need at most a few minutes on each side. Less is more in all things as far as Red Sea Bream is concerned. Don’t overly season it. Keep sauces light.
If not cooking the whole fish, find some other use for the head, bones, and fins, such as fish bone stock. Or salt-grill the head, which is full of some of the fish’s richest, juiciest meat, and prepare the fillets another way. Any leftover bits of Red Sea Bream from any dish you make should be saved and used as tasty, umami-rich pieces of protein in other dishes, such as salads, vegetable, rice, and noodles.
Red Sea Bream can be found across the Setouchi in supermarkets, fish stores, and michi no eki, which are local farmers’ markets. The best judge of freshness is the eyes, which should be clear and alert. If you plan to eat it raw, look for sashimi-grade fish, which is typically located in a different area within the fish section. It may or may not be noted with the word ikejime (刺身) which indicates that the fish has been killed by piercing its brain with a spike as soon as its caught, and the fish then immediately put on ice. This method causes instant death and means the fish’s flesh contains a minimal amount of lactic acid. It will taste better and also keep fresh on ice for about a week without degrading. Sashimi-grade fish is great for any kind of dish because you know it’s the freshest available.
Sea Bream Rice : Tai Meishi
For those unable to source Red Sea Bream elsewhere in the world, suitable substitutes include Black Sea Bream (Kurodai/ 黒鯛), European Sea Bream, also known as “Orata” or Gilt-Head Bream, or Red Snapper. These fish share similar characteristics, such as firm texture and mild, sweet flavor, making them appropriate alternatives for a variety of dishes.
Alfonsino, called Kinmedai (金目鯛) in Japanese, is another viable substitute for Red Sea Bream, as it shares a similar texture and mildly sweet flavor profile. Sea Bass can also be an alternative, although its taste and texture may slightly differ from that of Red Sea Bream. Nevertheless, Sea Bass remains a popular choice for its delicate flavor and firm, flaky texture, making it suitable for a range of culinary applications.