Fish Spring Rolls : Harumaki
Fish spring rolls are the Setouchi equivalent of the fish in “fish ‘n chips.” The fish is wrapped in a thin, crispy shell that becomes wonderfully savory as it cooks, while the fish inside steams and stays succulent. This recipe is particularly well-suited to the delicate flavor and texture of the lean, small-flake white fish such as sea bream, which are found in the Seto Inland Sea.
However, the recipe can also be used with other types of fish, including larger, oilier fish like cod and haddock that are commonly used in batter-fried fish recipes. The advantage of this recipe is that the fish is evenly coated in batter, does not fall apart during frying, and does not absorb too much oil. Additionally, it only takes a few minutes to cook, ensuring that the fish remains tender and moist.
Fish Spring Rolls
Sakana no Harumaki : 白身魚の春巻き
Makes 8
Main Foods
Sea Bream Fillets (skinless and boneless), 2, about 1/2 lb. (225 grams)
Thin Spring Roll Wrappers, 8
Seasonings
Sake, 2 teaspoons
Moshio Seaweed Salt or Sea Salt, 1/4 teaspoon
Katakuriko Potato Starch or Corn Starch, 1 teaspoon
Flour, 2 teaspoons
Aromatics / Flavorings
Ground Black Pepper, 1/8 teaspoon
Shiso Leaves, 10
Flakey Sea Salt
Lemon Wedges
Directions
Cut each fish fillet in half lengthwise, and then cut each half in half again down the middle. Place the fish in a small bowl and add the sake, sea salt, and black pepper. Gently massage the seasonings into the fish. Sprinkle the katakuriko potato starch or corn starch over the fish and lightly massage again. Let rest for 15-20 minutes and up to a few hours covered in the refrigerator.
Cut the shiso leaves in half down their length. Mix the flour with 2 teaspoons of water in a small dish to create a “glue” for the wrappers.
Take a wrapper and place it in front of you with the pointed-end facing you. Lay 2 pieces of shiso leaf end-to-end horizontally a little below the center of the wrapper. Place 1-2 pieces of fish (about 28 g) on top of the shiso leaves. Roll the pointed-end nearest you over the fish, then fold in the left and right sides of the wrapper. Continue to tightly roll up the wrapper. When you get to the remaining top triangle of the wrapper, dip a finger into the flour-water mixture and wipe it along the edge of the wrapper to create a band of glue. Finish rolling up the wrapper, pressing down on the final edges to make sure they stay shut.
In a large pot or frying pan, pour enough vegetable oil so that it is about 1-2” (3-6 cm) deep. Heat the oil to 320°F (160°C). Place 3-4 spring rolls in the pan and fry for 3 minutes, turning occasionally. Remove the spring rolls and place them on a rack or paper towel to drain. Repeat the frying process with the remaining spring rolls.
At this point, the spring rolls will only be lightly colored, but the fish inside will be cooked through. To ensure that the spring rolls are golden brown and crispy without overcooking the fish or letting the wrapper absorb too much oil, they are fried in two stages. The second stage is done at a higher temperature to finish the spring rolls.
Raise the heat of the oil so that it reaches 350°F (180°C). Fry 3-4 spring rolls at a time for about 30 seconds to 1 minute, or until they are well and evenly browned. Remove and place them on a rack or paper towel to drain.
Serve
While fish spring rolls are typically served as an appetizer or side dish, they can be surprisingly hearty and satisfying, making them an ideal option for a light meal. To fully enjoy the crispy texture of the spring rolls, serve them while they are hot and in one piece or cut them diagonally in half for easier sharing and an attractive presentation.
For added flavor, accompany with lemon wedges to squeeze over the rolls and a sprinkle of flaky sea salt. These condiments perfectly complement the umami flavor of the fish and the crunchy texture of the wrapper.
Variations
There are numerous ways to vary this recipe. If you don't have access to sea bream, you can use other types of lean, white-fleshed fish, such as alfonsino, red snapper, and sea bass. Pacific saury, pike mackerel, and sardines, which are smaller, richer, and oilier, are also options. You can even try large, deep-sea fish like cod and haddock. Just make sure to use boneless and skinless fish.
Instead of shiso leaves, you can experiment with other aromatic leaves that complement the fish and fit your style of cooking.
You can also vary the condiments, such as using aromatic yuzu, spicy lime, bitter grapefruit, or other citrus flavors. To add more complexity to richer, oilier fish, consider incorporating seasonings like sansho powder to the salt or serving hot, citrusy yuzu kosho as an alternative to the hot karashi mustard that is traditionally paired with spring rolls.