Honey Glazed Sardines : Tazukuri
This recipe is one of many possible variations of Tazukuri, a side dish of candied dried baby sardines, which are called iriko in the Setouchi and niboshi in other parts of Japan. Tazukuri is traditionally a featured item in the O-sechi box of celebratory foods enjoyed at New Year’s, representing the wish for a plentiful catch of fish in the coming year. However, Tazukuri can be enjoyed year-round, being, in fact, an addictive, salty-sweet, umami-rich snack of nearly pure calcium.
Iriko are available in bags or by bulk at shops throughout the Setouchi and the rest of Japan. You can also find them at Asian food stores elsewhere in the world. They’re used in cooking as an umami-rich seasoning and sources of protein, calcium, Omega-3 fatty acid, and minerals, especially magnesium. They don’t require any special preparation, and can be eaten “as is” as a snack, as ingredients in a dish, and to make Iriko Dashi stock. Sizes range from 1-3 inches (3-8 cm) in length. For Tazakuri, use the smallest iriko available, about 1-2 inches (3-5 cm). They have a milder flavor and you don’t need to snap off the heads and pinch out the stomachs to reduce their bitterness, as you need to do for larger iriko. Their slightly bitter taste is welcome; it helps balance the sweetness and richness of the dish as well as that of the other holiday foods being served, with Tazukuri serving the culinary role of a palate cleanser.
Honey Glazed Sardines
Tazukuri : 田作り
Serves 4
Ingredients
Iriko, 1/2 cup, loosely packed (20 g)
Peanuts, 1/4 cup (40 g)
Seasonings
Sake, 1 tablespoon
Sugar, 1/2 tablespoon
Honey, 1/2 tablespoon
Soy Sauce, 1/2 tablespoon
Mikan or Orange Juice, 1 tablespoon
Aromatics / Flavorings
Toasted Sesame Seeds, 1 teaspoon
Directions
Toast the iriko in a small fry pan over medium-low heat for about 1-2 minutes to eliminate any residual moisture and lightly brown them. Toss around with a spoon to prevent them from burning. They are ready when you start to hear a snap-crackle-pop sound. Remove them to a plate and set aside. Roughly chop the peanuts (you can use salted or unsalted nuts.)
In the same fry pan, mix all of the seasonings and thicken over medium heat until you can draw a spatula through the sauce. It should be forming small, caramelly bubbles.
Add the iriko and nuts, mix to coat them well with the sauce, and gently cook on low until all the liquid is gone and the iriko and nuts are nicely glazed and just slightly sticky. Be careful not to overcook and burn the glaze.
Spread the Tazukuri on a tray or plate lined with parchment paper and immediately sprinkle the toasted sesame seeds on top. Cool down, then put in a sealable container. It will keep in the refrigerator for about a week.
Serve
Serve as a snack with drinks or put a bowl on the table at the start of a meal. You’ll be surprised at how often your guests grab some with their chopsticks. Because they quickly disappear, you might want to consider doubling the recipe.
Variations
For a stronger accent of orange flavor, use an orange flower honey, add slivers of orange peel when boiling the sauce, and/or grate some zest over the Tazukuri before sprinkling on the toasted sesame seeds.
Any type of nuts can be used: walnuts, almonds, pecans, etc. If you’re avoiding nuts, leave them out or replace them with suyaki soy beans, which are roasted soy beans.
To add a spicy note, chop a dried red togarashi chili (after first cutting it open and removing the seeds), or use some red pepper flakes, and mix into the sauce while cooking.